The “RDS” kit includes this. The kit is compatible with Airtronics, Futaba, Hi-tec, and Multiplex servos. The following vendor sells the product.
This is a drawing included in the package. The installation is rather easy. I would recommend reading the “Installation Instructions” before you begin, simply to become acquainted with the techniques.
These are servo cans that fit Airtronic’s, Jr, and Futaba. They can be purchased from Paul Trist at “Planes, Wings and Things”.
Here are the Aileron boxes showing the drive shaft with the aluminum bearing tube. The boxes are made from smooth faced Formica and balsa.
Here the rods are made from 3/32nd piano wire, bent to 45 degrees. The size and length of the drive shaft varies with what wing you are fitting it in. The location of the servo will determine the length of the rod.
Here I have used a Futaba servo S3002 MG @ 46 oz torque and the servo can that fits it.
The reason I used this can is to be able to replace the servo if it fails, it is held in with a small dab of 5 min epoxy. Also I have CAed the coupler top to the coupler bottom. Here I made a modification to the instructions, I drilled and taped a 1/72 stainless threaded screw through both the coupler top, the coupler bottom and the output shaft of the servo, so as to keep the drive shaft from slipping off the servo.
The foam is removed from the area where the drive shaft and coupler bottom exit the servo can, so it can move inside the wing out of the way to remove the servo. Once you have determined how long the drive shaft will be, make surer you flatten each side of the shaft where the allen screws will hit, this will make sure the shaft will not twist.
I have used Robart hinges with allen sockets, I wanted to be able to take the ailerons off to get the servos out. Here you can see how the shaft exits the wing. The shaft fits the depth of the aileron pocket. I made 1/4″ holes in the bottom of the wing just over the aluminum bearing tube at the T/E of the wing, so I could epoxy the tube in the proper place without getting epoxy in the tube or on the shaft. The same technique is used for the Robart hinges. After all is in place you can fill the holes with gold colored bondo, filler and sand flush.
The aileron pockets are the only tough part to build, the trick is a good fit to the shaft without slop and still allow smooth operation. Also you want enough room to get them in the thickest part of the aileron. The slots are 3/32nd by 3/4 wide by 3/4 deep. The pocket is 1 1/2″ long. Here I will defer to Mike Garton to show you the best way to make the pockets.
Once you make one the rest are easy. Now cut and fit the pocket in the aileron, epoxy the box in, recess it about 1/8″ into the LE of the aileron, this is to allow for the bend on the shaft. Use masking tape on back side of the pocket to close up the slot this will keep epoxy out of the slot when gluing.Here you can see the alignment of the aileron and wing, with all the components in place. The advantage of using Robart Hinges with the allen locks is the adjustment you get to fine tune the clearances.
Also you can see where the holes are to epoxy the bearing tube and the hinges.
Not only does the RDS system give you the scale look we all want, but you will be surprised how much torque the servo has with this type of system. This is a 1/4 scale ASW 24, Next I will install this system in my all molded, Schuler 1:3 scale ASH 26.